Ed. Note:  This is a series of letters written by my great, great aunt to her parents in North Brookfield/ Waterville, New York and others in 1889-1890 when she was studying and traveling abroad.  She was twenty-six years old and had graduated from Smith College in Northhampton, Massachusetts before leaving for Europe.  The “note” at the top of the letter states her purpose in writing these letters and why they were kept to be read by us one hundred twenty five years years later (2014).

At the same time that my great Aunt was on her grand Tour,  A young woman correspondent for the New York World embarked on a trip That girdled the Earth in 72 days,  6hours,  and 11 minutes to break the fictitious record of eighty days set by Phileas Fogg.  He trip extended from Nov. 14th 1889  to Jan. 26th 1890.

A young woman dressed to travel. I wonder if my Great Aunt had a similar ourfit?

Miss Bell suggested that a journal of my travels would be well to keep.  But I think if you keep my letters it will be journal enough.  I shall make it my journal & send to you. In after years it will be pleasant to refer to it.

Aug. 23, 1889

Palais Royale

Here we are safe, well and enjoying ourselves in the beautiful clean city of Dykes. We came off the boat about 8:30am after going through a series of canals leading from the ocean, requiring about three hours to pass through.  It was lovely to see the green grass & trees again. I’m so happy and glad to be on land again.  I’ve just curled my hair and made ready to go out sight seeing with Miss Swan who is not quite ready. We have  a very pleasant room- two rooms with glass doors looking out on the King’s palace.  The city is very clean, indeed, wonderfully so with its smooth white laid cobble stones.  I just looked down and saw three of the gentlemen from the steamer coming here – looked up at us  and bowed. It seemed pleasant to see familiar faces I  have seen many wooden shoes.  but only on the lower working classes. The horses here impress me.  They are small, but with thick bodies and manes and tails. There are so many things I wish to tell you– To-night I shall have an opportunity to write again. I wish you could but look out and see what I do.  You wold be charmed.  I must say goodbye for now as Miss Swan is ready.  We are going first to see about our trunks at the station. (We eat five times a day at the Frauleins) (Ed. note:  The Frauleins is a chaperone service for young single women traveling abroad.)

About ten o’clock

We’ve been sightseeing nearly all day.  We had a delightful afternoon in the Zoological Garden. I thought  of Ray (nephew) and his delight in seeing the wonderful animals.  It is called one of the finest in the world.  Flowers, animals, plants, and everything to make it beautiful.  It cost us 20 cents to go in and we enjoyed it thoroughly.  We are not able to decide what to do about leaving tomorrow.  The gallery, the finest in Holland and containing 500 rooms and many wonderful pictures, we’ve not see yet and shall not be able to if we go on the 8.38 train tomorrow am as we had planned. We dislike to miss it, but if we don’t go then we cannot until about six in the evening, which will bring us into Hannover between 2 and 3 in the morning.  We have not as yet decided what it’s best to do.  I shall feel terribly disappointed to leave Holland without seeing the museum.

address

Hannover,  Germany

Prinzenstrasse 14,

care of Bei Fraulein Zimmerman                                             Aug. 25, 1889

We are just dressed, but while waiting for developments I have time to tell you a little about myself since I left you in Amsterdam.  I intend to

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Just here we heard a rap to which I answered “herein'”  (come in. It proved a call to the first breakfast a little after eight this am.  It may be earlier.  others we went in to just coffee and rolls.  If you could see the bed of roses on which we are reposing you would be more, far more than contented and happy.

To begin back at Amsterdam , leaving on the 6.26 train for Hannover.   We waked Saturday morning with the prospect of so bright a day that we concluded to remain during the day and to take in the sights, leaving on the 6.26 train for Hannover.

We didn’t lose a minute going to the Ryks (national) museum, after going early to the station to send a a second telegram announcing our change of trains.  The museum is a new public building containing five hundred rooms, each of which has beautiful tiled floors and heavy tapestry hangings.  The paintings are the most beautiful in Holland.  The “Immaculate Conception” by Murillo is there in the original and stands out like a star in beauty and grandeur.  Also Van  Dyke’s “Christ”, Rembrandt’s “Night Watch” the latter for which the Eng. offered one million dollars for it is grand beyond expression.  The light being painted into the picture in those grand colorings never seen in an American paintings which are daubs compared to with it.

We saw also several portraits by the celebrated portrait artist Van Dyke– one of Marie Stuart & the young William II which was beautiful.  There are the originals which of course are nowhere else in Europe.  Those in most galleries there are copies of them.  Of course not nearly so beautiful. We lost much by not understanding Dutch which is not like German tho’ just a little which was something of a help.  We could not tell whether we went through the 500 rooms, but we spent four or five hours and were well repaid by any one of the paintings.I  have mentioned there were several paintings of Christ’s Descent From the Cross.  His agony before the cross and on the cross which will leave a life long impression— so real– so wonderful.

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Just here we were called to the four o’clock coffee & rolls.  It’s seems to me that the Germans don’t do much else but eat.

To return – after visiting the museum we came back to our room and were so tired that we failed to visit two churches of much interest.  I forget to say that before we went to the museum that we went to the King’s Palace.  There we employed a guide for 20 cents each and visited a great no. of beautiful rooms which are shown to all visitors when the royal family are not there.

One of the largest rooms in Europe is in the palace having the largest unsupported roof in  Europe.  The ceiling is 100 ft. high & the room is adorned with carving, marble statuary, etc. It was indeed beautiful. The most of the carving in marble was by dutch artists –  but some by Italian.  Whole rooms of carved marble  The Albany capitol is finished in carved wood of exquisite designs, but these in carved marble representing famous Greek and Roman figures as “Venus”, “Apollo,” etc.  Then the ceiling and portions of the rooms were adorned with paintings by Dutch painters.  King William III is King of Holland and the only heir to the throne is the young princess– I’ve forgotten the name- is nearly nine years old.  We saw her room.  One statue I’d never before sees was “Silence” represented by a woman – but alas! she was able to keep her silence only by holding the lips by two fingers.  Our guide spoke several different languages – not like the guide in the Youths Companion – he asked us not how many languages we spoke. At 6.36 paying our board at Palais Royale- a very nice hotel, for two days and one night- which cost a little over $1.40 apiece.  Think of it for two days!  Everything was so cheap in Amsterdam we could get so many beautiful things and for one half we could in America.  I saw little dress for Polly.

Early in the morning the City became vegetable gardens brought into the City in carts by men & women in wooden shoes without covering for head & often in rain without protest,  but they looked well and strong.  The vegetable were much better  looking than our markets.  The marketing was done  by maids in white caps in streets – many of these at all times of the day carrying baskets,  lots of work, a basket shaped apron often thrown over the basket as in markets they don’t do up in paper what’s bought at market.  I could write volumes about Amsterdam but I must go on to Hannover.

Our Journey here ended at nearly three o’clock.  I wasn’t very tired, as we had comfortable seats in the quietest cars -where I slept.  The cars are divided into many parts with apartments alternating I class, II class, I class, II class.  We had a II class apartment which seated just two and when once in the coupe the door was locked and occasionally the door was opened by the conductor to punch our ticket. Our compartment opened into a water closet and place to wash. Very much nicer even second class than our American cars.

When we reached Hannover there were two ladies sent by the Frauleins to meet us – who arranged for our trunks to be brought up in the morning! and a few minutes walk brought us to the house . We passed through a station the most beautiful I ever saw – a perfect palace.  We are in the fourth story of a very nice building and our rooms are large and open into each other like this.  The rooms are high and the windows are doors which can be thrown open nearly to the ceiling making the rooms very light and airy.  Everything was arranged for our comfort– our beds are very comfortable. A queer little feather bed over us, but light and which we needn’t have as there’s a lovely comforter which we thought at first was silk but proved a lovely quality of sateen.  Mine is red, Miss Swan’s blue.  We are waited on like princesses. The frauleins we met at the first breakfast.  They almost took us in their arms, and have done so much for us since, said so many kind things and made us so thoroughly at home that we don’t know what to do or say.  I wish I had time to describe them.

Just now we are setting around the table, the three Frauleins– a sister is now with them who takes meals with the two frauleins, and the young ladies, German girls, four, who attend the Frauleins’ school are around the large table with their fancy work, although is is Sunday evening. It has seemed like a holiday here all day the streets crowded with people in holiday attire.  At one o’clock we had a delicious dinner of soup first, then roast beef- very nice, potatoes, cauliflower, potato salad, lettuce salad made with olive oil which I like I liked exceedingly.  For dessert we had a chocolate blanc mange with orange custard.  Everything was very nice and so like America that but for the people I might have imagined myself at home.  I have had a very great appetite since  I left the sea and am better than I have been for years. I cannot remember when I have felt so well, and able to eat everything as now – it is delightful to feel so well I am all over the effects of my seasick.  Miss Swan was a little sick after getting on land.  But mine came on the sea.  I believe it is worth all the suffering at sea to be so well now.  I sleep & eat astonishingly, and was never in better health.

When we reached our rooms last night, I was delighted Oh! so happy to find four letters waiting me and yours among the no. I read the four by the light of a candle at three in the morning.  Miss Bell, Miss Cushing and Aunt Susie sent the other three.  Does it seem possible that I am here?  I enjoyed every word of your letter – how longingly I wish you were here to enjoy with me.  I would be perfectly happy it seems, if my friends were here too.

We went to the English Church at eleven this am.  The service was almost the same except the prayers for the Queen.  At six we went again – I was very happy there. I don’t believe it possible for one to be lonely here –  everyone is so kind and really affectionate.  I never saw so much affection shown.  All are saying good night so farewell until morning

It is morning now, but not quite time for breakfast – which is at eight.  I slept well last night on my queer little bed – Our sheets are of fine linen. When the young ladies of the school – young German girls of 14-16 yrs. I should think , come in to breakfast, each goes up to the fraulein and shakes hand and says good morning kisses each.  also asks if she’d slept well.  They are the kindest people I was ever with. They overpower us with favors.  The night we came  our rooms were the perfection of neatness – white croquetted (crocheteted ?) mats, __curtains over window and bureau, on centre table was a little set for making orange-ade in case we wished for something to drink, and close by our water bottles which are seen everywhere abroad.  This  morning we are going out to  mail our letters, then doing a little studying in German, afterwards or sometime in the am a lady is coming to the house of whom we wish to engage German lessons.  We are delighted with our surroundings.  The charming people- dainty rooms, our keen appetites, the good food and, in fact, everything is far, far better than I expected.  I almost wish I were to spend at least part of the year here studying German.  The Frauleins can speak a little Eng. We a little German. so we make out very nicely.

I don’ feel I’ve told you half of our experiences, but I must now stop and save the rest for another time.  I was glad for every word of your dear letter. I thought of your eyes and hope it didn’t tire you to write it.   Darling, do write often – everything interests me.  Tell me how you are.  I know I must be gaining flesh. What shall I do with my dresses if I grow fat too fast?  My dresses weren’t crushed much, in fact, my skillful packing saved them from being hurt.

At Salzbergen at eleven o’clock at night when crossing from Holland to Germany we were hustled out to have our trunks opened and examined. If my big trunk had been gone over or even opened, I might not have been able to go on, as the train stopped only ten minutes.  Fortunately the custom house officer was lenient – he just looked into my hand bag, then clapped a blue ticker on my bag and trunk.  The steamer trunk wasn’t open either.  Miss S – had to have both opened- Queer! Very much love, and my heartfelt wishes for your happiness, darling ones – Harriett E … Love to Rena and Carl  (sister-in-law and brother) and children.  I hope I may find time to send Rena a few lines soon-