July 1903 – Pearl Middleton goes to Guam
by Pearl Forney Middleton
In a recent Colliers, I read of “Happy Guam” and the modern life there.
How different was the Guam I knew. It was July 1903 that I crossed the Pacific with my young son, one year old. We were 22 days without seeing land as we did not stop at Honolulu.
We were up watching for land at daylight, July 22, and finally saw the tiny island. We arrived in Guam one day earlier than my husband expected, so he was late in reaching the ship.
He had built a house upon the hill beyond Aguna, the capital, and was asleep there when the whistle announced the arrival of the transport. He drove to Aguna in the bull cart there he hired a native pony cart for the 5 mile ride to Peti. When he reached Peti, he finally got a boat to go out to the ship. (the way of transportation had been engaged for the next day, so he had difficulty in getting there)
I had had breakfast and was prepared to go ashore, but no husband. I was too shy to ask the Quarantine officer where my husband was, or if he was alright. The mail only left Guam once a month and then went to Manila before going to the “States.” My last letters had been dated 2 months before.
I was getting quite disturbed when one of the passengers asked if I would recognize my husband. I said, “Quite sure,” then looking in the direction in which she was looking, I saw a boat, 3 miles away. In it was standing a man in a white suit. He looked about 2 inches tall. At last, he was coming for us.
When I saw the way and the distance he had travelled, I understood the delay!
We bid good-by to our fiends, and got into the row boat and were taken ashore. Then in the tiny pony cart we went to Aguna. Then by bull cart to our house on the hill.
I did not know what life in the tropics was like, about animal life and when I heard a particular sort of laughing sound, I became startled. I was informed that it was only the lizards that were all about. They did not hurt anyone but destroyed the wasps and mosquitoes so I accepted them. I did not miss any of the mosquitoes that the lizards had eaten, as there seemed to be millions about, day and night.
The centipedes, wasps, flying roaches and scorpions, I could keep away from me if I was watchful O Boy!
The house was built with wood windows and tin roof. Glass was scarce there and frequent earthquakes made it unwise to use the glass.
When my husband started to go to work he called the Chamorro man servant and told me I would be all right. Hosea would do the work and any errands. I looked at the big machete in his belt and was doubtful, but being reassured finally, reluctantly saw my husband go to work. Hosea proved to be very helpful and the days slowly passed.
I had been on the island about 2 weeks when I was awakened one night by a terrific down pour of rain on the tin roof. Then Harry began nailing windows shut and a dreadful wind started.
It was a typhoon!
It was necessary for Harry to leave us for a time and I stayed with the servants in the house. The servants were frightened and I did not dare let them out of my sight for they would go home and leave me.
About noon Harry came home, and finally the wind stopped. There was a dead calm before the wind started in the opposite direction and blew as hard as ever (a habit of typhoons here) We were resting when suddenly the roof began to come loose. We sent for help and the men from the ice plant came out and bent the “eves” down and nailed them, so saved the roof.